The Old Parsonage

I may need to ask forgiveness from local restauranteurs, but the Old Parsonage is probably the most high class restaurant in Oxford proper.  There is of course Raymond Blanc's flagship just outside, and thr Nut Tree Inn with one Michelin star.  Within the city walls, though, there is a lack in good restaurants.

Part of a group of restaurants, the Parsonage is where you take a guest if you want to have a good meal.  Less business like than Quod, and less fish bowl like than Gee's (the two ugly sisters).

We had a leisurely lunch to while away some time, so felt like visiting the Parsonage.

Half a dozen starters and mains on the set menu, and some desserts we ignored.  A had the rabbit liver and I the ham hock terrine.

We have reached a point which most couples tend to, whereby we know exactly what the both of us will order out of a selection, and the question is who had which.  A is a huge fan of liver (as am I) so I deferred to her this time.  The rabbit livers, the first time we have tried it, were delicious.  A light metallic tang which were mammalian and chewy tasted like excellent chicken livers.  The texture was more akin to calves, but softer, and size also seemed similar to poultry.  With a little touch of bacon for salt, and little broad beans (fava if you want pretension) to chase around, the starter was excellent.

The terrine was also very good, and not overly salty as they sometimes can be.  Good bounce to the meat, and plenty of it.  It wasn't excellent and no better than any good potted meat you can find elsewhere, but still an excellent start to a meal.  Cornichons weren't necessary, but a traditional accompaniment, I suppose.

The house bread was very nice.  Two options were served: a chewy sourdough and a harder (rye?) that provided plenty of opportunity for picking.

A had the kedgeree with poached egg.

The egg in question was just right, and the flavour of the dish was a pleasant balance of fish, rice, and a touch of smoke from the haddock.  The colour looked more like artificially dyed haddock than saffron, but that does sound like something the Parsonage would do.  My only (slight) complaint was that the rice was overcooked and mushy, it was a little homogenous, lacking more peas for texture, and stingy with the fish.  A told me to stop whining.  In truth, it wasn't a risotto and the texture wasn't bad.  There were some fish bones, which I thought they could have taken more care with, and a few more peas would have added texture.  None of this made us unhappy; I am just picking at bones.

I decided on a boring steak frite.  The steak frite wasn't boring; I was particularly uninspired that day.

I asked for as rare as they could manage, and to their extreme credit, the thin sirloin was wonderfully pink.  As much as you can expect for a minute steak (6oz?).  There was some trade off with a brown exterior but I would rather have a pallid, raw piece of beef than all that browning but solid grey throughout.  The chips were excellent.  Crisp, thick and extremely fluffy inside.  I had immediate food envy of the scampi and chips that went past to another table, as the freshly battered scampi looked so enticing.  My steak was fine, but pallid is still pallid and the portion was small.  Fine for most people I guess, but not for this growing (sideways) boy.

The bill came to £37 for two set menus, and a slight indulgence in a glass of champagne took it to over £50 with service.  The meal wasn't mind blowing (although the liver was excellent), but everything was just nice, which is difficult to find in Oxford, where there are several tragically flawed alternatives.  Is it worth the price?  Not for the food, albeit lovely, but yes for a very enjoyable lunch.

Pierre Victoire

Once upon a long time ago, a young M and A had their first date in a French bistro in Oxford.  Years later, we decide to spend a Sunday brunch seeing how the old place has weathered the years.  We go from strength to strength; will Pierre Victoire be the same?

In Sundays they only have a prix fixe menu, which is fine.  It is volumous and covers french classics like pate, duck confit, etc, as well as catering for locals with a range of Sunday roasts.

A ordered the are, and I the salmon cous cous.

The pate is delicious, and extremely fluffy, making the large serving a pleasure to finish.  Oddly almost no bread was served with this, and the gratuitous baguette with the table cover cost didn't make enough of a dent, and we had to ask for more.  What do most people do, eat it with a spoon?  One could, although it's not advised.

Sad baguette.  £2

The cous cous was a sorry affair.  With almost no salmon, and certainly no detectable pieces of eye advertised smoked salmon, it was extremely bland.  Insufficient herbs and peppers to break up the mushy monotony, this was diet food (read: pointless).

The wait was the worst part of the meal.  After plates were cleared away, mains simply failed to appear.  We weren't forgotten; the restaurant just moved at glacial speeds.  Having been seated with no reservation with the admonishment of "ok, but you need to be finished by 2pm", which seemed reasonable since we had come in on the last bell of noon, we were now sitting waiting at 1.15pm for our mains.

A's moule frite was lovely.  Not an overly large portion but plenty for her and some to share.  The mussels were tender and plump, and in a simple marnier sauce.  Frites were rather ho hum.  No bread for soaking up the sauce.  Maybe baguettes are at a premium, or maybe they are habitually wasted, but I would have thought they would replenish with appropriate dishes.  Moan about bread over.

My Sunday roast was a masterpiece.  Something very lean, possibly top rump or silverside, were blasted so that there is still some perfect rareness in a few slices matched well with a good Yorkshire pud and some lively vegetables in jus.  I thought the gravy was too think but A pronounced it excellent.  I do like thick, meaty, gravy, and shouldn't fault this sauce.

For the price, the mains really made the set menu.

By 1.45pm we were worrying about our parking, never mind the deadline they had set.  No sign of desserts; should we just leave.

Finally, these arrived.

A's cherry tart used sweet cherries in season rather than the sour morello type, which meant the flavour was entirely lost in the cooking.  What a waste of good fruit.

My strawberry fool (by some French name) was fine.  After the enormous (even for me) roast meal, a bowl of cream was just a tad too much.

All in all, the price was more than fair for a three course Sunday lunch, and some of here good was excellent and enough to make up for the less interesting dishes.  One needs to pick and choose and learn the menu, which would be a worthy excercise for the best options.  The service does rather let getting experience down.  All very friendly, loud, and extremely french, we were sitting for two hours which rather stretches just how leisurely a lunch we wanted, and at points perfectly good English names and descriptions were given in French.  Yes, I understand it's an authentic french bistro with authentic french staff, but a Yorkie by any other name; a fool is still a fool.

This is the worst photo possible.  I am sorry and I am turning in my blogger card at the door.

Lunch for two with a glass of wine each was around £35-40, and portions are very generous.  Worth becoming a local just to avoid the dud dishes, and order by looking at others' plates, not the menu.

Bill's, revisited

The previous visit was so nice, we decided to take my in-laws there during a visit to Oxford.

After the hot oil bath last time, we were sensible and did not order anything from the deep fried menu, even though it had been such a success.

Better photos of the menu

The interior.  Quiet on a Friday lunchtime, but only because Bill's is surprisingly cavernous. There are a dozen tables seated, but the place seems empty.

Bar

Seating

Salmon special

Very sizeable serving, and nicely presented.  The slathering of mayonnaise seems excessive, but a very well received dish.

Chicken Caesar

The chicken looked like it might be dry, but was actually nicely tender.  Marinated in something, it came out well.

Avocado, bacon and spinach salad

Also very well received.  Simple,but tasty.

All in all, salads that would make a man happy, whilst not the usual burger for lunch.  Good value, and very tasty.  Not your garden variety salad.

Lunch for three: £35 including soft drinks.